The ultimate first timers guide to japan
There is no doubt about it, Japan is a unique place.
The land of sumo’s, sushi and sudoku , I had always been intrigued but Japan had never made it to the top of my travel list. Then one evening, after a hyperfixation on hiking Mt Fuji, I had accidentally booked my flight to Tokyo.
Normally I would never rush through a country like I had with Japan, good things take time. However I was in the mood for a challenge and decided that to save time I would use overnight buses and limit my time spent in the cities. As always, the habits of a backpacker never die and I did all of this on a shoestring budget.
With so many places that you could visit, your itinerary will depend on your interests, time available and budget – but it really has something for everyone. You can use this guide to plan your own Japan trip.
TOP TIPS FOR YOUR FIRST TRIP TO JAPAN:
– The Japan Rail Pass can be purchased online for 3, 7 or 14 days and is valid for all Shinkansen services except the Nozomi and Mizuho so just check your routes first. You have to collect your ticket in person (do NOT lose it a you cannot get another!). If you wanted to prebook your train seats you also had to do this at the stations, which I just found odd. I ended up always finding a seat in the ‘unreserved’ section on the trains just fine.
– Bus and train stations have lockers you can rent in different sizes depending on your luggage. Simply drop off your stuff, explore, then back on the train to your next destination! The largest ones do sell out quickest. My 60L backpack fit inside the second smallest ones so they are roomy.
– If you visit in summer prepare for the HEAT! Especially if you are not used to it.
– You cannot smoke in the streets in Tokyo, you will need to find smoking shelters.
– Women in Japan dress modestly, even in nightclubs. Personally I would have felt uncomfortable in a strappy top.
– For the BUDGET BACKPACKERS get overnight buses to save on accommodation (if you dont mind being homeless for a bit before and after the bus). I have to say, however, that these buses were not as clean or comfortable as I would have exteced from Japan! But for $20 from Mt Fuji to Kyoto I was pleased, it left at 8pm and arrived around 5am. You can book your seat online.
TOKYO
I met people who spent an entire week just exploring Tokyo, heck, I met several travellers who stayed 2 weeks and did not leave the city! As I live in Hong Kong I came to Japan to leave the city life so two days was enough for me, however if you only have 7 day trip or less i would stay in Tokyo and use it as a base to do day trips.
Staying in Shibuya will mean that you are central to most things, transport is easy, and you can walk home from your night out.
Where to stay?
I stayed at Unplan hostel, clean, central adn well laid out especially if you are a female and get a bed on the ladies only floor.
TOKYO HIGHLIGHTS
– Shibuya Crossing: The famous ‘busiest crossing in the world’ now only busy as it is full of tourists. Definitely worth a visit, there are lots of cafes overlooking the square but the cheapest way is to go to the Starbucks on the 3rd floor and snap some photos.
– Harajuku; Great to walk around at night and see it all lit up. Only a quick 15 minute walk from Shibuja. Home to lots of Karaoke bars, shops and Purikura (photo booths). The Purikura are hugely popular amongst Japanese teen girls and alot of fun, I bet others will join in if you fancy using one!
– Ikebukuro: Home of the Pokemon mega store if that is your thing.
– Asakusa: Electric town for the Amine fans. Also has a bunch of cat cafes and maid cafes. Both are quite the unique experience…
– Meiji Shrine: Main temple of the city. Take a wooden stick and match the writing on the boxes to read your fortune. Bad fortune? Don’t take it with you – tie it to the posts to ensure you do not take the bad luck.
– Teamlab Planets: This was an unexpected surprise but I loved it. It is in Koto city, easy to get there on the train, buy your tickets online beforehand for your preferred timeslot.
TOKYO DAYTRIPS
If you have longer than a week you can pick your favourite to stay a night or two.
Nikko – Escape from the city to a peaceful day trip with waterfalls and natural hotsprings.About 2 hours from Tokyo.
Hakone – Gorgeous views of Mt Fuji and is known for its hot springs. Here you can visit the famous Hakone shrine and the open air museum.
Mt Fuji – My personal highlight and the main reason for my Japan trip. You can do a day trip from Tokyo to climb Japan’s highest mountain at 3776 metres from July to September.
If you would like to hike Mt Fuji you can either go up and down in one day (‘bullet climbing’) or stay overnight at one of the hiking stations and hike to the top for sunrise. After hearing that there is a 1am wake up call and hundreds of people for the latter I chose bullet climbing and loved feeling like I have the mountain to myself.
You can visit Mt Fuji independantly with ease but if you like to make things quicker and easier there are plenty of day and overnight tours.
TOP TIP: Book your bus tickets in advance online at japanbusonline.com during hiking season! They DO sell out.
Lake Kawaguchiko – Another Japan highlight was cycling around this lake on a perfectly clear day. Lots of photo ops and cute cafes. Mifuji-en Hotel was one of the few hotels that allow you to purchase a day pass and sit in the Onsen with incredible views of Fujisan.
KYOTO
After staying in Tokyo and doing some day trips it is time to leave and explore possible the most iconic place in Japan.
How to get here?
1) Shinkansen from Toyko using your JR pass.
2) Want to maximise your time and budget? Overnight bus costs about $12. The buses are not as nice as I thought they would be, but it did the job.
Where to stay?
Downtown Kyoto is the best area to stay in as everything will be nearby, and the Geisha district less than a 10 minute walk away.
If you are only visiting for the day you can leave your luggage at Kyoto station (bus and train stations both have lockers). The lockers come in different sizes and can be rented overnight.
KYOTO HIGHLIGHTS
Fushimi Inari Taisha – The famous thousands of gates. It is open 24 hours a day, free entry, and takes about 2-3 hours depending on how long you stop for photos. I went straight from my overnight bus at 6am and it was almost empty!
Kinkakuji; aka Golden Pavillion. In nothern Kyoto, the top two floors are coverd in gold leaf. Under 15 minutes on the train from central Kyoto or 10 mins on a bus. Opens at 9am , I recommended getting there for then.
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove – Honestly, overrated. Still worth a visit as the area around it is beautiful. Trains start very early and take about 15 minutes, then it is a 10 minute walk.
Arashiyama Iwatayma Monkey Park – Near the Bamboo Grove, on top of a hill so great views. You can buy food to feed the monkeys if you wish.
Geisha Village – Wonde around the Geisha district at night, you may see the Geishas leaving around 5pm. Please note that it is not accepted to take photos of the Geishas and there are signs saying so.
FOR 7 DAYS I WOULD ONLY RECOMMEND VISITING TOYKO AND KYOTO! FOR LONGER TRIPS KEEP ON READING…
OSAKA
Know for being a lively city full of fun food and great nightlife. I suggest 2 days one night here!
How to get here from Kyoto?
Only 15 minutes on the Shinkansen from Kyoto with your JR pass.
OSAKA HIGHTLIGHTS
Osaka Castle – Estimated 500,000 to 1 million stones were used to build this impressive castle, well worth a visit. 600 yen for adults.
Shitennjoji Temple – One of Japan’s oldest temples. You also also visit the pagoda and Gokuraku – Jodo Garden here.
Shinsekai – This district was modelled (ahem, copied) from Paris is that tickles your fancy.
Minami / Dotonbori – Where you go at night, think neon lights, music, bars and delicious street food.
DAY TRIPS FROM OSAKA
Nara – Most famous day trip in Japan. Cute traditional town and Japan’s first capital city. Best known for as thee deer park home to 1200 deer (!). Easy to visit independently using the JR pass un around 45 minutes from Osaka.
Nara Hightlights:
– Kofuku – ji: temple a few minutes walk from the station
– Isuien Garden; Traditional Japanese Garden
– Todai -Ji; The world’s biggest wooden structure build 752 AD!
– Kasuga-Taisha; The iconic 300 stone lantern entrance
– Deer park! Of course. You can buy crackers to feed them, they even bow..
Kobe – Another easy trip just 20 minutes from Osaka using your JR Pass, then grab the special rapid service from Hyogo station to central Kobe.
Kobe Hightlights:
– Try Kobe beef! Kokubu came in at the best rated place, Meriken Hatoba is more affordable but also highly rated.
– Nada Sake Museum
– Kobe Port Tower; can see all the way to Osaka on a clear day.
– Soraku – en Garden; Traditional Japenese garden
STILL HAVE TIME ON YOUR TRIP AFTER TOKYO, KYOTO AND OSAKA? NEXT STOP HIROSHIMA!
BONUS: ON ROUTE TO HIROSHIMA – HIMEJI CASTLE
I did not make it to here but i definitely regret it. An amazing white castle and one of the original 12 in Japan! Best way to get here is to take the direct access Hikari train from Shin-Osaka Station, around 30-40 mins.
HIROSHIMA
Most famous for being the home of the world’s first atomic boming in 1945. I just stayed one day and headed out into Mijajima island to spend the night.
HIROSHIMA HIGHLIGHTS
Atomic bomb drone – This is the building right underneath where the bomb was dropped and somehow survived
Peace Memorial Musuem – 200 yen entry. Focuses on the victims of the bombing.
Hiroshima Castle – Worth a quick visit just to see the old collection of Samurai swords!
MIYAJIMA ISLAND
Home to the famous ‘floating gate’. You could easily day a day trip to Miyajima island but i would highly recommend staying overnight to watch the other tourists leave.
It was a highlight for me after Mt Fuji and I wish I would have had two full days there.
MIYAJIMA HIGHLIGHTS
Giant Torii – Yes that red gate you see in everyones photo in Japan. Looks like it is floating in high tide. It is right at the front of the island so difficult to miss
Itsukushina Shrine – Opens at 8am and if you visit then you will have it to yourself. Beautiful semi floating temple. 300 yen entry.
Five storied Pagoda – Stunnig Chinese style building
The Ropeway – Take the cable car up to the top of Mt Mison. Does not seem to be open all year so double check before visiting. OR…
Hike Mt Mison – I hiked for sunrise and it was the best part of my trip along with hiking up Mt Fuji. The path is clear just watch out as i saw alot of snakes!
THAT’S IT! THE PERFECT FIRST TIME TRIP TO JAPAN.
If you have extra time I would recommend using your JR Pass and grabbing the train to Niseko or Hokkaido in the North. Craving the beach? Get yourself a flight to Okinawa for some beach time and amazing scuba diving.
