the ultimate first time patagonia intinerary
The most incredible place I have ever visited – 3 months was never going to be enough.
Its geography makes traversing this incredible part of the world difficult, however it is more than worth the effort.
Patagonia is the southern part of Chile and Argentina and it can be difficult to decide on your route – do you zig zag through both countries? (i did!), go north to south, south to north… this will depend on your travels after Patagonia and how you plan to move around.
As always, my opinion is slow travel by bus is the best way to see this amazing region.
When deciding on my first long term backpacking trip – it was top of my list and the main reason for wanting to travel South America.
However, as soon as I started planning how I would go about travelling Patagonia I got a little overwhelmed at the amount of places that I wanted to visit, and the budget that I was one.
On this page I have detailed all of the places I believe create the perfect FULL Patagonia intinerary. How much of this you visit will depend on a few things:
- What is your budget? Your MAXIMUM budget.
- How much time do you have? Can you afford to spend more time on long cheap buses , or would you prefer to take expensive flights to fit more in your tight schedule?
- What time of year are you visiting? Some roads freeze in winter, some hikes will not be doable. In the peak of summer everything is busier and even some campsites require advanced bookings.
- Do you need comfort or are you going to rough it out? Long buses and camping, flights and hot showers, a mix?
- Do you have your own camping equipment with you, or are you renting it in the towns before the famous hikes?
- Are you taking a suitcase, or do all of your things fit in a backpack?
All of these things will change how you tackle this huge region. I spent 3 months budget travelling as much as I could in Patagonia and have completed what I think is the perfect guide below.
Good things to know:
- Hitch hiking in Patagonia is fairly easy, safe and a way of life for most people.
- Best time of year to visit is November to March with warmer weather and longer days.
- Be careful when taking fresh produce over the border into Chile – a fine for an apple is apparently USD$250!
- If you see a working ATM, use it. You may not see one for ages.
- If you want to travel up and down Pataognia, you will be crossing the Chile – Argentina border several times.
- Buses here are LONG due to the size of the region. BUT some of the flights are very reasonable. I took a flight from Coyhaique to Puerto Natales as the roads were still frozen and it was about the same price as the bus.
Getting to Patagonia
BUS
If you are visiting Patagonia as part of a longer trip then you will most likely overland this using buses.
I came from Montevideo , Uruguay via ferry, then a very long bus to Bariloche, Argentina. The bus was around 35 hours. Yes. 35.
Bus tickets can be purchased at the bus terminals or in advance online via the Recorrido or Cruz del Sur website. I found t easier to just book at the bus terminals a few days before but this may not be an option in high season.
Bus prices are very reasonable considering the thousands of kilometres covered at around USD$55 / 45,000 CLP for Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas.
Due to the geography of the Chilean side, the buses do not run all the way down Patagonia so you will criss – cross betwene Argentina and Chile. It is easy and the bus companies do everything for you.
FLIGHTS
Now there are multiple cheap airlines offering flights however. For Chilean Patagonia you can use LATAM, Jetsmart and Skyairline. From Santiago to Puerto Natales flights run daily in summer and are around USD$50 and about 3 hours. Flying from Santiago to Punta Arenas is about 3.5 hours and about $60. BUT prices do seem to vary wildly – I always check Skyscanner on incognito mode for all flights.
SAIL
Yes , you can actually sail through the Patagonia Fjords.
You book this through Navimag and ferries depart weekly from Puerto Montt. The prices are USD$500 – $600 for 5 days in a dorm so it really would be a treat, but what an experience it must be ! This only runs in high season October to March.
Patagonia intinerary
Use the map below for reference on the where the places are that I am taking about.
I am going to list the places starting as if you are coming from the north.
CHILE
Pucon
Popular town in the Chilean lake district.
3-4 days is enough.
PUCON HIGHLIGHTS:
- Villarica Volcano – Main attraction in Pucon. The volcano is highly active and you must do a tour to visit. The tours are done by a local authority only so they can charge alot around CLP8500 / $120.
- Heurquehue National Park – Local national park with gorgeous lakes and waterfalls. There are lots of trails to pick from depending on how long you want to hike for or if you want to camp. Buses leave Pucon at the main terminals in the centre of town next to the JAC station at 8:30am and 1pm. CLP3600 return , 1 hour each way. Could hitchhike also. Only bus back to Pucon leaves at 2pm and 5pm at the park entrance. Entry is CLP5000 for foreigners.
- Pumalin Park – Absolutely stunning park, it’s an easy loop through the Alerce forest. It basically goes around El Volcan campsite. If you have a drone this would be amazing here! More popular amongst chileans but worth a visit, used to be owned by the North Face guy. From the bus terminal in Puerto Montt you can get to Caleta Gonzalo or Chaiten for about CLP14,000. Check the day before. An alternative to the bus is to hitchhike from Puerto Montt to La Arena and get a short 5-10 minute ferry ( if you get the bus then the ferry is included in the price). The ferry takes you to Puelche harbour where you can hitch hike or get a 1.5hour bus to Hualaihue where you can get another ferry to Caleta Conzalo in about 5 hours. Some seats on the ferry have charged outlets, the views are incredible! When you arrive at the park entrance grab a map, decide on your chosen hike and the latest camping information. Prices all seemed to be the same at about CLP5000.
In the north of the park there are waterfalls and volcanos. All hikes start from the campsites so you can leave your extra stuff there to return to later.
In the south of the park you will need to grab a bus (CLP600) or hitch hike from Chaiten to Futalefu and get off at the El Amerillo entrance. Campsites in the south seemed to be free! There is an amazing glacier hike here.
Puerto Varas
- Vincente Perez Rosales National Park – home to Petrohue falls and Lake Todos Los Santos.
- Osorno and Calbuco Volcanos – Mount Osorno has a chairlift open all year and is used by skiers in winter. You could do a self guided tour around the base of the Osorno volcano
- Saltos de Petrohue – lots of small waterfalls to explore.
Cochamo Valley
Get here from bus from Villarrica to either Puerto Varas or Puerto Montt and transferring onto a bus.
I did not visit here apparently it is striking similarity to Yosemite Valley, and one of only a few forests of its type. Rock climbers from around the world come for the valley’s several 1,000 meters (3,300 ft) granite walls.
Chiloe Island
The incredible beautiful long thin island just off mainland.
Castro is the capital of the Chiloe Province and has UNESCO churches, a market and in February there is the Festival Costumbrista.
To get here Puerto Montt is the closest mainland station. Travel the 90km southwest towards Pargua and then get the 25 minute ferry across the Canal de Chacao.
The camping here is amazing and if you visit during january to March when the weather is warmest you are in for a treat. The rainiest months are May to August.
CHILOE ISLAND HIGHLIGHTS
- Penguins! Seen on the Islotes de Punihuil. You can hitchhike to beach access point (30km southwest of Ancud). Once you get here there are several tour operators all offerring the same tour for about CLP7,000 per person. Alternatively you can organise a tour straight from the town for a little more money.
- Kayaking – You can kayak around the sea channels of the island, it was not clear whether you needed a tour or permission to do so.
- Stay in a cabin near the water – worth the extra treat
- Viewpoint / mirador up the hill from the Plaza de armas in Castro is worth a walk up to.
- Ancud – former capital, nice fisherman town.
- Muelle de las Almas (dock of souls) – views from the cliffs are amazing at sunset. To get here grab a local bus to Cucao, 1.5hours, it drops you outside Terrasa de Cucao, then another 30minute bus to Muelle de las Almas. Check the last bus times back! Should be around 5:30pm. The hike is 45minutes.
- Chiloe National Park – you pass this on the way to Muelle de las Almas so could do it in the same day. Lots of wildlife to be seen here and the cascadas de Tocoihue in the forest.
Argentina
Bariloche
- Nahuel Huapi national park has a famous Black Glacier. Kayaking, hiking, take a boat ride to visit the islands on the lake. Can go all year.
- Circuito Chicio is a 60km cycle route you can do.
- Ruta de los Siete Lago trek (route of seven lakes) – I did not do this but looks amazing
Refugio Frey Hike: Can do in a day and get bus back or camp at the Refugio Frey. Walk is very uphill through a forest, so wear layers. There are several ways to get to Refugio Frey; can get the ski lift then walk on boulders for a few hours, straight up and then back down. Or can take forest path instead of the chair lift, then walk on the boulders.
If getting the ski lift; from Bariloche town get the Catedral bus to Cerro Catedral Ski Resort. Trail begins to the left of the bus stop in the large car park and is clearly marked. You could get the ski lift up, and do a mixture of boulders and forest!
- Refugio Otto Meiling and Cerro Tronador hike + camp: 18km each way ish plus extra km if to walk to the bottom of the hanging glacier to see the falls. Medium difficulty and the trail is obvious. Must pay park entry fee. First part is through trees, second on the rocky top of the mountain where there is snow. Can camp for free at refugio Otto Meiling, the stars are amazing. Getting there by bus: return ticket to Pampa Linda (where the trail starts) from Club Andino in Bariloche ~CLP400/£0.50 return 2hours, 8am. Not sure if buses run outside of summer so double check. Can rent gear from them also.
Cerro Campanario hike: Famous viewpoint of Bariloche lakes. Easy to get to, get #20 bus from bus depot in town. Need to buy a bus card first from a convenience store in town. Can easily hitchhike this. Get off at Avenue Bustillo, about 17km from town. Ask driver to point it out to you because it may not be marked. From there you take the chair lift to the top or just walk up (better to walk). 30min steep walk to top. Buses run until midnight back to town.
El Bolson
- Rio Azul and Cajon Azul hike – Pretty small blue lakes. Most of the treks begin at Wharton which is easily reached from the centre of town. You can camp over in Cajon Azul and swim and kayak in the blue water. Can take a day hike to the first refugio, trails are well marked.
- Carved forest – Sculpture park on the mountainside, can walk further up and camp at the refugio/get food or go even further up to summit of Cerro Piltriquitron.
- Paragliding looks really good here
- Cerro Amigo: 30min walk, go for sunset, take picnic. Or go at night for star gazing. Walkable from the city centre and free, several viewpoint to stop at.
- Park National Lago Puelo: 9miles from south El Bolson with incredible views of the turquoise lake. Lots of easy walks, get map from entrance and decide. Can get boat on the lake.
- Ski – Short drive away. Good for beginners, no frills place, cheaper than surrounding ski resorts.
Esquel
Used to break up the journey from Bariloche to El chalten. Small town not lots to do but is the Gateway to Los Alerces National Park.
CHILE
Told you there is some criss – crossing over the border!
VILLA CERRO CASTILLO
- Visit the Caquien brewery! This is where i did my 6 week workway. The delicious beer is just brewed in their home, and if you are interested they will show you how it is made.
- Hand paintings – Ask the locals in the village where the hand paintings are. Similar to the Cueva de la Manos UNESCO site further south, these are thousands of years old. But as they are not really known by tourists there is no entry fee, nobody else will be there! I could not believe that they were just right there on a random wall.
- Cerro Castillo Hike – Can be done as a day or a 4 day hike. Used to always be a multi day trek starting outside of Coyhaique but a shorter route was opened up.
4 day hike – You should be able to leave extra luggage at a hostel or campsite if you promise to return after the hike. All campsites in park are free.
Day1: Trek starts at Las Horquetas (turn from Carretera Austral to gravel road, between Coyhaique (80km) and Villa Cerro Castillo (30km). The park entrance is an easy flat 13km walk on gravel. At the entrance you will need to register and pay $7 and you will get a map. Sometimes nobody is there and you pay at the end instead. There is a campsite there but nobody seems to camp there. Next campsite Campamento Portezulelo is 2km away near river, basic toilets.
Day2: Easy at first through forest along river 4km, then steep up to El Penon pass. At the top can walk on the snow/ice as never melts. Steep downhill. About 5h total, then 2h walk to El Bosque camping. Can walk to Laguna Castillo +1h but El Bosque is in a forest so protected from wind.
Day3: 1h to lake. Walk up and along the lake and over the pass. Then long walk down 1.5h. Then get to river camping Los Porteadores, can camp here and walk to Circo Glaciar without backpack, or walk 1.5h to campsite Neozelandes near the glacier, less crowded, amazing views.
Day4: From Neozelandes to Villa cerro Castillo, 13km 5h. Takes 3.5h to walk to road and 1.5 to the village and campsites. Show ticket at exit.Hike finishes in Villa cerro Castillo. Campsite Baqueanos de la Patagonia is $7pp and have electricity.
- Puyuhuapi to get to the Queulat National Park – Can hitchhike here, mostly Chilean tourists. Park entry is CLP4000, the hanging glacier is well worth the visit. Go early in the morning as it can get busy on the narrow paths. You can camp overnight in the park and then see the glacier before other tourists arrive!
Rio Tranquilo
Alot of times travelling, the instragram vs reality is pretty dissappointing. This is not the case here. It REALLY looks like this.
The town is lovely and worth a day or two, the food here is also really good. You can hitchhike the 2hour drive from Villa Cerro Castillo, i am not sure what the public transport route would be but it would be a couple of collectivos.
The Capillas de Marmol are the main thing to see and worth the CLP9000 for a boat ride.
back into argentina
Perito moreno (the town not the glacier!)
Cueva de la Manos UNESCO site. It is a cave full of painted hands and pictures form 13,000 years ago. I managed to grab a ride with someone else from my campsite and it was well worth it , although you cannot get too close to it.
EL Chalten
Trekking capital of Argentina in a beautiful relaxed village. Everyone is here to hike and you really meet the best people in places like this in my opinion.
Prebook hostels as they do sell out and you can easily spend a week here doing all the hikes nearby.
There was only one ATM when i visited and it does run out of money.
The bus company Taqsa runs a direct bus from Bariloche to El Chalten taking 27hours for ARS900 during December to April.
There is SO much to do here, I have included only a brief overview of all of the options. I spend two weeks here doing most of these!
SHORT DAY HIKES:
- Mirador Los Condores – easy, 2-3 miles. Starts at Parque de los Glaciares ranger station and gives amazing 360-degree views of the valley and Fitz roy.
- Chorrillo del Salto – 4 miles round trip walk from town at the car park on Avenida San Martin, easy hike to the large waterfall.
- Laguna Capri – 5 mile round trip. Moderate hike starting at the same car park as above. You walk up a steep slope to get amazing views of Fitz Roy and there are some lovely beaches to eat a picnic at.
LONG DAY HIKES:
- Laguna de los tres – the famous trek! 13 miles round trip, 3,100 elevation. Make sure to choose a good weather day to make the most of it. Absolutely stunning trek.
- Laguna Torre – 12.5miles round trip, 1,700 ft elevation. Another very popular hike that leaves you hiking alongside Rio Fitz roy. At the top of the trek you will see floating ice bergs making it all worth it.
- Piedra del Fraile – 8+ miles, can be as difficult as you make it. Hike starts 10 miles north of El Chalten and there are a few options for the hike and some lovely refugios serving Malbec and yummy fresh food.
- Lomo del Pliegue Tumbado – 13miles, 3,500 elevation . Starts at the Parque de los Galciares ranger station. Less known but worth it if you have the time and energy.
- Lago Del Desierto – More effort than the other hikes but you walk along the lake bordering Chile and Argentina, you could even do this on your way over the border depending on your luggage. There are tour options and private taxis that can get you there if you have more than you wan to hike with.
MULTI DAY HIKES
- Huemal Circuit – 40+ miles. A challenging 4 day hike that covers basically all terrain. You need to register at the visitors centre beforehand. The view of the Southern Patagonia Ice field is completely worth it – i would whole heartedly recommended this hike.
EL Calafate
Known for the Los Glaciares National Park and to see the Perito Moreno Glacier.
This town is definitely the most touristy place I visited in Patagonia due to the Glacier being easy to visit with a tour. The town is modern and more expensive than other places. There are more high tech things like an ice bar and a glacier museum if that is your thing.
To get here from El Chalten the bus is 3 hours and about ARS400 on nice roads. Also super easy to hitch hike as it is such a popular route.
There are some cheap campsites to the left of the main bridge in town, the cheapest is about ARS100 and has wifi, hot showers and a BBQ area. There is some free wild camping right near the river to save even more money!
EL CALAFATE HIGHLIGHTS:
- Perito Moreno Glacier – Yup that thing all over instagram, It really is amazing but super touristy. You will walk around wooden paths with hundreds of other people.
No need to take a tour, you will need to get a shuttle bus from town and book the day before you want to go. Takes about 90minutes and costs AR600. Entrance is AR500 and was cash only valid for one day. Take your own food and water! - Bike ride around the lake – Rent a bike from La Barraca at the end of the mai street for about AR100/hour. Cycle the lake and take a picnic.
- Laguna Nimez Reserve – A 2.5km trail to see wild birds. Entry is AR100 , you could also do this on rented bikes after cycling the lake.
- Upsala and Speazzini – Other glaciers you could visit.
BACK INTO Chile
Puerto Natales
Getting here from El Calafate is an easy 6h bus journey with Cootra bus company ARS150. Remember do not bring fresh fruit or veg into Chile!
It is worth noting that the bus station is far out of town in Puerto Natales.
Everyone is here to hike Torres del Paine and the town has a large Unimark supermarket and camping shops to buy/rent whatever you will need. There are plenty of ‘replica’ North Face/Patagonia coats, bags etc.
Make sure you ask you accommodation to store any extra things that you do not need for the hike.
Torres del Paine – I have a more detailed post HERE about everything you need to know about hiking TDP, but you should have prebooked your campsites before hand if you are not doing a day trip.
You need to register at the CONAF office in Puerto Natales or at one of the entrances to TDP. Office is open Monday to Thursday 8:30am – 12pm, 2:30-4pm and is near Erratic Rock Hostel.
There is a free talk daily at 3pm at Base Camp Bar near the CONAF office that can help you decide what trek suits you best. As always there are tour companies that will take you, but these are extremely overpriced.
Getting to TDP from Puerto Natales – Three companies offer the route for about 24,000CLP return and it takes 2h. You can use any company on the way back. Tickets can be bought at most hostels and the bus station. There are also loads of drivers so hitchhiking is easy.
You then need to get the ferry for CLP18,000 one way and the trek begins in Pudeto.
To enter the park you pay at Laguna Amarga, it was cash only 21,000CLP.
Puerto Arenas
This is the southern most mainland city in Chile.
To get here from Puerto Natales there are two bus companies running several times per day; Bus Fernandez runs 5-6 buses per day for 5,000CLP. Also pretty easy to hitch hike.
It gets cold down here! I certainly noticed the different and was here mid October. Worth a couple of days depending on your itinerary but the hostels are expensive and not great. I ended up in a nice airbnb for some time to myself after the TDP hike.
PUNTA ARENAS HIGHLIGHTS:
- Magellan Penguin Colony – This is the main reason for visiting here. Tours only leave certain days of the week so plan ahead. Tour companies are in the south east corner of the main square and cost about 55,000CLP to see the colony at Tierra Del Fuego, at Seno Ottway tours are around 10,000CLP.
Depending on time / budget you can pick to see the penguins here or Punta Tombo in south east Argentina. - Kayaking the fjords – Was expensive when I priced it up but i regret not doing this.
Ushuaia
Known as ‘the end of the world’ and the gateway to those visiting Antartica.
An odd kind of fishing village with art deco buildings, I will say it is a little overrated but then I was on a tight budget. The very unpredictable weather made hiking here no where near as enjoyable (hello ice cold pouring rain) but the sunsets over the harbour are truly stunning. Plus it is an essential part of the bragging rights ofthe ‘top to bottom’ South America trip.
The ferry from Puerto Arenas to Ushuaia leaves once a day.
USHUAIA HIGHLIGHTS:
- Parque Nacional Tierra Del Fuego – Great hiking, unpredictable weather. Feels like untouched nature
- Catamaran to Faro Les Eslaireurs / Isla Martillo –I did notdo this but it looks amazing, I wish i had coughed up the extra money to see the penguins here. I could not, and still cannot decide if i agree with the ethics of walking around with the penguins.
Puerto madryn
This is in the east side of Argentinian Patagonia and is known for the seeing the largest penguin colony in the world after Antartica.
PUERTO MADRYN HIGHLIGHS:
- Punto Tombo – 3h/180km from Puerto Madryn. Home to the 2nd largest penguin colony. Between October – November the penguins come ashore, June to December is whale watching season with also the chance of seeing elephant seals and sealions. In April you can apparently see killer whales from the shore capturing seals.
Tours are about USD$50 and you are taken to other sites in the area to fill out the tour (tea rooms, museum) but you can ask to skip these and pay less. Most tours do not include the USD$9 entrance fee or include lunch. - Isla Encondida – In October elephant seals come here. Unless you have your own transport or want to hitch hike you can add this onto your Punto Tombo tour, not all companies off it. Entry to the beach is free should you get there yourself.
- Valdes Peninsula – Parch to April orcas visit and eat the sealioons. Throughout the year you can see sea lions, birds, elephant seals. June to November is one of the best places in South America to see the southern right whales. Tours are about USD40 without $5 entrance fee. You are able to get a boat out for an extra $40 ish.
- Punta Lomo – Only 17km out of town and a good options to see sealion instead of Valdes Peninsula. Entrance fee is about $5 and easy to hitchhike or grab the bus from town, no need to take a tour.
- Playa Doradillo –
This is a normal beach all year but June – November the bay is full of southern right whales nursing their babies in the shallows. Try and visit in high tide.
Can hitch hike here but need to set off super early to avoid walking in the midday sun. Can cycle here.
That is it!
A huge amount of information but hopefully the map helps visualise where to go.
Do not stress on seeing everything – focus on the main things you want to see. Personally, i hugely regret not spending more on seeing the penguins.
From here you can begin the long journey out of Patagonia to Buenos Aires, or I went north to wine country.
