The ultimate first timers guide to URUGUAY
The Mate’ addicted nation of Uruguay is more frequented by wealthy South Americans wanting to escape to the beaches, rather than backpacker during a Latin America trip.
The European influenced cities, great surf and surprisingly liberal politics (same sex marriage, legalised marijuana and abortions) give Uruguay a very different feel to the rest of South America.
I visited during the colder winter months so spendiing weeks on the beaches was not my first thought. The huge appeal of visiting this small country is to have a break from the long bus journeys in the neighbouring in Brazil and Argentina !
I came to Uruguay from Argentina, so below are the places in order that I visited. Coming from Brazil you would probably be doing these in reverse!
Uruguay quick info:
- You can drink the tap water here no problem
- Currency is the Urguay Peso
- Difficult place to do on a budget during the peak seasons so do check beforehand for pricing and book ahead. Best time to visit would be late November, December or late February.
- All of the buses here are nice and the journeys are short
- 3:1 cows to people!
Colonia del Sacramento
Only an hour long ferry from Bueanos Aries means that the town can become busy with affluent Argentinains wandering the beautiful streets of this town.
There isnt much to do here but worth a couple days to take some lovely photos, eat some great bread and wander the cobbled streets. You will feel like your are in Europe here!
HIGHLIGHTS
La Calle de la los Suspiros is the most photographed area and rightfully so.
There are 8 musuems that I didnt bother going to , but you if you wanted to kill time you only need to purchase one ticket to enter all of them.
Other than these it really is just wandeirng around and sipping wine in the sun in the one of the many outdoor restaurants, tough life…
WHERE TO STAY:
EL Viajero hostel and Hostel El Espanol are decent but a little run down, however they do have a kitchen are reasonably priced.
GETTING TO THE NEXT STOP:
There are regular buses from Montevideo taking 2 hours or the ferry from Buenos Aires. The bus and ferry terminal are next to each other and just a 5 minute stroll from the centre.
Montevideo
I loved Montevideo and ended up getting an Airbnb and staying for a week, pretending I was a local. The buses are really easy to use to get around although the city is safe and walkable.
Heavily European influenced, there are lots of bars to sit outside and people watch for hours, street performers, cute boutique shops and delicious food.
HIGHLIGHTS:
Wander along La Rambla , or if you visit during the summer months head to the beaches of Playa Ramirez or Pocitos.
My favourite place to wander and people watch was La Ciudad Vieja.
There is a flea market on a Sunday at Tristan Naravaja / Avenida 18 Julio that is peak people watching. I bought some weird wall hangings from here that I ended up carting around for another year of travel so maybe stay clear of impulsive purchases!
WHERE TO STAY:
Although I spent a week in an Airbnb i also had a couple of nights in Destino 26 which had an amazing courtyard.
GETTING TO THE NEXT STOP:
Daily buses to Punta del Este 2.5 hours from the Tres Cruces Terminal which requires a short trip on a local bus.
PUNTA DEL ESTE
Welcome to the Monaco of South America, Uruguays main tourist destination and home to the ‘hand in the sand’. If you are coming here in December and January expect busy streets, expensive rooms and some packed street parties!
Most things here are actually closed out of season , so best to check beforehand.
HIGHLIGHTS:
Take photos at the hand in the sand.
Chill on the beach, or at the many beach bars and restuarants.
Spot sealions , dolphins and sometimes even whales on Playa Mansa between Paradas 23 and 40.
Walk along the harbour watching the fisherman selling their catch.
Had enough of the crowds? Grab a bus to Jose Ignacio which is a nice quieter beach resort.
WHERE TO STAY:
My recommendations are Negrita Hostel and Tas D’Viaje.
GETTING TO THE NEXT STOP:
The bus terminal is just a few streets away from Tas D’Viaje where you can get back to Montevideo (2 hours) or Rocha and then get a transfer bus to La Paloma / La Pedrera.
La Palomo / La Pedrera
Twin beach towns right next to each other. They have a surf vibe but are a little run down and past their peak.
They are worth a visit for the peace and quiet and something a bit more laid back.
HIGHLIGHTS:
Chill on the beach, surf!
I spent a few lazy days between the to towns just chilling at the hostel, cooking and being a beach bum.
WHERE TO STAY:
My pick is La Balconada beach hostel is right next to the beach and one of the few places that has a kitchen. They also offer free transport to and from the bus station!
GETTING TO THE NEXT STOP:
The bus terminal is only a 5-10 minute walk from the main beach and you can get to Cabo Polonio in 1 hour on the twice daily buses. Rocha is 45minutes away (where you need to change at to get to Punta Del Este) and Montevideo 3 hours.
To get to Cabo Polonio take a Rusta del Sol bus to the Cabo Polonia Junction (the bus driver will know where this is). Here buy a bus ticket from the visiter centre or terminal station to Cabo, which is a 20 minute drive away. The mini buses do not come often so, about every 90 minutes so be prepared to wait.
Cabo Polonio
A small basic town with no electricity , one shop that closes early and no ATMs.
Some travellers I have spoken to loved this town and I was convinced to go, whilst everyone I met here was really friendly, I am not so sure about it.
TOP TIPS: Try not to arrive here in the dark as it would be difficult to find your way around. Also bring a little bit of food with you as it is very overpriced here.
HIGHLIGHTS:
There are some amazing views here, a great community and some lovely night time fire pits.
WHERE TO STAY:
Lobo Hostel has a kitchen, and Playa Sur was probably the cheapest place. Both are overpriced as with everything in town.
GETTING TO THE NEXT STOP:
The only way out for tourists was the double decker open air trucks that leave from the centre of the village every hour – ish. When you get back to the visiter centre that you came from, ask the hostel for the estimated pick up times.
A bus from here to Punta del Diablo takes 1 hour, or you can head back to Montevideo / Rocha.
PUNTA DEL Diablo
Best place in the country for surfing and a beautiful beach.
Even if you do not want to try surfing or are a bit intimidated to try it here, then it is a still a nice chilled laid back town with a great vibe.
If the weather is bad you might be stuck for some things to do, however. One of my favourite places in the country and you could always skip the previous two towns and just come straight here.
Note – not ATM here either.
HIGHLIGHTS:
Surf! Live your best beach bum life. Beach days and sunset beers.
WHERE TO STAY:
Mar de Fondo Hostel, El Diabol Tranquilo come recommended. I stayed at La Casa de la Boyas, it has a kitchen and is close to the beach.
GETTING TO THE NEXT STOP:
There is a small bus terminal just outside of town to get to larger cities lik Montevideo and La Rocha. For closer towns there is the bus stop in town (the wooden shack near the supermarket). There are local buses and seasosonal buses back to La Pedrera and Punta del Este.
