Torres del paine: day trip, the 'w' or the 'o'? everything you need to know.

For everyone that ventures this far south in Patagonia  – they are after the sight of the famous three towers.

The towers are set in a huge 2,400km2 national park of glaciers, rivers and wildlife all with a backdrop on the breathtaking snow capped mountains. Given that that even the multi day hike options are fairly easy, it is a very popular hike to complete.

Everyone knows they are going, but the first question everyone asks themselves when they start researching is how are you going to see them – day trip, The ‘O’ or the ‘W’?

Day trip, The ‘W’ or the ‘O’?

Day trip = self explanatory, you visit in a day and go back to your accommodation in town afterwards.

The ‘W’ = Half loop around the Cordillera del Paine done in 3-7 days. It is definitely the most popular option.

The ‘O’ = 6-10days  110km, and a full loop of the Cordillera del Paine.

I think that this decision is determined by two things:

  1. What time of year you are visiting. Is it too cold for you to camp? Would you want to? After a chilly camp in -8oC in Fitz Roy I can tell you camping in sub zero temperatures is not for everyone (or me). December to March is high season, I did the W in November and it was fine for me as I had a great sleeping bag.
  2. Whether you actually like, or are able to do, multi day hikes. I was fairly new to this, it was only actually my second multi day hiking trip (the first being on a tropical island off Brazil…)

After researching i decided on The ‘W’. I wanted more of an adventure than a day trip would provide, but not anything longer than it really needed to be. For me this was the right decision.

DAY TRIP

Tours are easily booked through your hostel and are about USD$60 per person for transport and guide. The majority of the day is spent driving.

Usually the prices do not include the entry fee of 18,000CLP, this covers you for 3 days but you could not purchase a day pass.

Your tour will collect your from your accommodation or you will go to a more central hotel in town around 8am. 

You will do the standard visiting of cheap tourist shops and then begin the incredible drive up to the National Park. 

I believe that are two options for the day trips, one where you hike a little more and one where the tour bus will take you through the sites in the comfort of your seat. 

 

decided the day trip is not for you? Keep reading!

THE ‘O’ AND ‘W’ PLANNING CHEATSHEET

  • First thing – decide on how much you can / are willing to walk each day. Then book your campsites as soon as you decide. They do sell out in high season – even the free ones! I booked mine months in advance.
  • The free campsites in the park are Italiano, Paso and Torres. These are booked on the CONAF website.
  • The paid campsites belong to two companies; the insanely expensive Fantastic Sur  (campsites Chileno ($$$), Serron, Cuernos and Frances) and the more reasonable Verticepatagonia (Dickson, Perros, Grey, Paine Grande).  The paid campsites obviously have better amenities than the free ones, but the prices of some of them are a complete rip off. 
  • Water in the park is drinkable
  • There was absolutely no phone service
  • Download the route on google maps offline or Maps.me
  • You can charge your electronics at some of the campsites but you will need to stalk a plug until it is free. I managed to just use my power bank.

WHAT TO DO BEFORE THE MULTIDAY HIKE

  1. Register at the CONAF office in Puerto Natales or at one of the entrances. Office is open Monday to Thursday 8:30am-12pm, 2:30-4pm and is near Erratic Rock Hsotel.
  2. Organise a place to leave your extra belongings not need on the hike (normally hostel you will return to afterwards). Take your passport for campsite booking verification.
  3. Attend the free talk held 3pm daily at Bar Camp Bar near the CONAF office.
  4. Book your shuttle bus to the park ( in high season they fill up). I just booked when i arrived into Puerto Natales (same bus station).
  5. Ensure all your campsites are booked, this can be done on Booking Patagonia and ensure you have the verification emails handy. Ideally this would have been done well in advance of the hike! I booked mine a few months beforehand as soon as I had decided.
  6. There is one big supermarket in Puerto Natales that is the best place to stock up on food. There are loads of camping shops to hire equipment, get ‘replica’ branded clothing, make sure you take enough gas if cooking!
  7. Bring cash – the entry fee and ferry only accepted cash when i was there.

Getting to Cordillera del Paine from Puerto Natales

Three companies run shuttle buses from town to the park for about USD$25 return, it takes around 2h and the ticket can be used for either company on the way back.

You can buy the ticket at most hostels but I got mine when i arrived into Puerto Natales bus station. 

Hitch hiking would be easy as a lot of tourist choose to drive for the day trip.

You then need to get the ferry for about CLP18,000 one way. The trek begins in Pudeto.

The ‘W’

Below is my route. I was happy with this, for reference this was only my second ever multi day trek and first in cold weather. So if you are more experienced than you may want to do more in a day.

Day 1 – Puerto Natales to Camp Grey, 11km.

Start hitch hiking early, stopping at the entrance to pay and then continue driving to Pudeto / the catamaran stop and get the ferrt across to Paine Grande. Trek to Grey campsite (Vertice, CLP5000). The hike starts uphill then levels out and takes 3-4 hours. Camp Grey has an indoor sitting area and kitchen area.

Day 2 – Grey Camp to Italiano Ranger Station

18km + 8km extra if you go to Glacier Grey, leave your stuff at the campsite and return back to collect it afterwards.

Start hiking back the way you went to Paine Grande, then around Lake Nordenskold to the Italiano Ranger campsite (free/CONAF – now closed!).

Day 3 – Italiano to Frances 

10km, weather can be bad on this route as it is all uphill to the Britanico lookout where the best views on the W trek are found. Leave your bag with the ranger at the campsite.

Then hike back down to the Italiano campsite, collect your stuff and head to the Frances campsite (Fantastico Sur 8500CLP per tent).

Day 4 – Frances to Torres Central or El Chileno (Torres was closed!)

The hike this day goes up and down along the stunning lake, When you enter the valley it is all uphill from there. I camped at the Chileno Lodge and paid the ridiculous price. I have to say it was a bit of a highlight and a stunning place to camp in the woods. The food and drink at the lodge looked great but I didnt buy anything (again, super expensive for a budget backpacker). There is no kitchen here but they supply hot water. The other option would be to camp at Torre Central but this is 2.5hours away from the towers. Ask the rangers for the sunrise time if you are wanting to visit the towers for sunrise.

Day 5 – Chileno to the towers and back to Puerto Natales 19km.

Most people get up 4am , headtorch on and hike up to watch the towers at sunrise. I began hiking just when the sun had risen and ended up being the only person at the top at that time! No regrets and worked out perfectly, it was an eery beautiful experience.

Head back to the campsite, packup and start the walk down. In the Las Torres hotel carpark there is a bus that leaves at 2pm and takes you to Lake Amarga if you are over walking, otherwise it is 1.5h. 

The 'o'

The ‘O’ trek is 7-9 days and 120km and is the option that I would choose now being a more experience hiker.

Unlike the ‘W’ where you will see fellow hikers , the ‘O’ offers more peaceful trekking away from others, but still has plenty of refugios. The hike can only be done anticlockwise from Central campsite.

One day I hope to go back and complete the full ciricuit!

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